Sometimes, you need a pick-me-up in the form of caffeine + chocolate, a match made in heaven. These rich, moist brownies more than hit the spot. Pair them with a cup of coffee and you will be good to go for quite some time; perfect for a busy weekend afternoon!
Note: To make these, you will need a kitchen scale.
Brown Butter Espresso Brownies (recipe adapted from Julie Marie Eats)
Ingredients: 130 g (4.6 oz) granulated sugar 130 g (4.6 oz) brown sugar 3 large eggs, at room temperature 120 g (4.2 oz) butter 75 g (2.7 oz) dark chocolate chips 70 g (2.5 oz) neutral oil 1 ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 75 g (2.7 oz) all-purpose flour 35 g (1.3 oz) cocoa powder 1 tablespoon cornstarch 2 tablespoon instant espresso powder ½ teaspoon salt 75 g (2.7 oz) dark chocolate chips, to fold into the batter
Preparation: 1. Preheat the oven to 160ºC/ 325ºF. Spray a 20×20 cm (8×8 in) square pan with baking spray, line with parchment paper, and spray again with baking spray. 2. In a medium saucepan, add the butter and cook over medium/high heat until it is golden brown; it will take about 8-10 minutes. Pour the browned butter into a medium bowl, scraping out all the brown bits from the saucepan. Add the cocoa powder and whisk in. Add the chocolate chips, let sit for a few minutes, then stir until melted.
3. Stir together the flour, cornstarch, espresso powder, and salt.
4. Place the eggs, brown sugar, and granulated sugar in a large bowl and mix with an electric hand mixer until light and fluffy; this will take about 4 minutes.
5. Add the melted butter/chocolate mixture, plus the oil and vanilla, and mix until combined. Turn the hand mixer off, add the flour mixture to the batter, and gently mix everything on the lowest setting until combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl with a spatula.
6. Add the extra chocolate chips and gently fold them in. Pour the batter into the prepared baking pan and smooth the top. Bake for about 35-40 minutes. Let cool, then serve.
A while back, I trained to be a docent at the US Botanical Garden. But before I could give my first tour, we moved overseas. I really liked the subject of the tour I developed, so I thought I would share part of it here for those of you who are also interested in leaves.
When entering a garden, most people’s eyes (mine included) gravitate toward the flowers. And how could they not? Flowers evolved to attract attention, and they do their job very well. But there are other really interesting plant parts, and leaves are one of them. In a tropical rainforest, leaves are everywhere, in all sorts of sizes, shapes, textures, and patterns:
The main functions of all these leaves are photosynthesis, respiration, and transpiration. Photosynthesis uses sunlight energy (which is absorbed by the chlorophyll found in green plants) to convert carbon dioxide and water into glucose (food for the plant) and oxygen. Respiration does the opposite: it converts oxygen and glucose into water and carbon dioxide; this gaseous exchange occurs via the many stomata (pores) found on leaves and other parts of the plant. Stomata are also the primary sites for transpiration (the process by which plants release water in the form of water vapor).
This post is about some of the many ways leaves in tropical rainforests have adapted to their conditions, in support of these and other functions.
A rainforest has four basic layers—a floor of exposed roots, seedlings, and debris; an understory of stunted trees and shrubs; a high and dense canopy of trees and vines that intercepts most of the sunlight; and an emergent layer, from which the tallest trees emerge to reach the light.
Plants in a rainforest face many challenges: Competition for light, excess moisture in the understory, insufficient moisture in the canopy, too much wind, poor nutrition, hungry insects and other predators, and a host of other nuisances. Leaves are there to help.
Space and light
One advantage in the competition for light is to have big leaves, like the Taro and Banana plants below, which live in the understory of the rainforest where light is scarcer. Larges leaves help the plant absorb as much sunlight as possible.
Leaf size is determined to a certain extent by how wet or dry an area is. But as a recent study has shown, it is particularly dependent on temperature — especially cold temperatures. The biggest leaves in the world are found close to the Equator, which is warm and wet. The smallest leaves are found in 1) hot desert areas, which are warm, but not wet; think cactus spines, which are modified leaves, and 2) colder, higher-altitude areas, which can be wet, but are not very warm; think pine needles, which are also leaves. Basically, plants do not want to roast during the day and they really, really do not want to freeze at night. So their leaves have adapted to help them. Small leaves do not require as much water — nor are they as susceptible to frost — as bigger, thicker leaves. Hence their preponderance in deserts and colder areas. In contrast, plants in tropical rainforests have plenty of water and do not have to worry about getting too hot, so the sky is the limit in terms of leaf size. If that is, they can get enough light….
Shade(and protection from insects)
Those bigger-leafed plants make it hard for smaller plants to get the light they need for photosynthesis. Many smaller plants living in the understory of a tropical rainforest are just too little (in stature and leaf size) to compete with the big guys. But their smaller leaves have come to the rescue via pigmentary adaptation. If you see plants with leaves that are green on top and purply-red underneath, like the Calatheas below, they most likely live in low-light conditions. The purply-red undersides provide the plants with a second chance to reflect light energy back into the leaf by ‘catching’ the light that passes through the leaf from the green side, and sending it back through.
This fascinating adaptation aside, Calatheas are also worth another glance because of their distinctive leaf patterns, which are meant to fool insects. The pattern in the center photo looks like dark green leaves on top of lighter leaves; this confuses insects and tricks them into eating only a small part of the leaf. They see the dark green part as an appetizer and don’t realize they missed their chance to have a whole meal.
Light, wind, and more protection from insects
There are a number of theories as to why many tropical plant species with large leaves, like the Monsteradeliciosa below, produce leaves with holes. Technically speaking, this is called fenestration, which means “having small perforations or transparent areas.” In Latin, the word for window is “fenestra,” similar to the Italian “finestra.” So Monstera are plants whose leaves have adapted to have windows in them. One theory is that fenestration helps the plant capture sunlight more efficiently because the plant spends less energy producing big, solid leaves. Another theory is that the holes help the plant withstand heavy wind and rain by letting both pass through more easily. And finally, fenestrated leaves may also be a form of camouflage; they make the plant look a little chewed up, thus discouraging insects who may want a more pristine meal. It’s a tough world out there for insects … sometimes.
Other tropical plants may not have fenestrated leaves, but they have something that serves a similar purpose: segmented leaves. The Ruffled Fan Palm (Licuala grandis) below is an example. It is a small palm that grows in the understory of the rainforest; it is native to Vanuatu island. There is one leaf in the photo below, and its fan shape provides a large area for light absorption. The leaf is cut into segments that can tilt to allow air to pass freely through the fan. During stormy weather, the fan moves with the wind and the segments shift into a more streamlined pattern that allows them to go with the flow, and emerge from the storm unharmed.
Water repulsion
As one would expect in a rainforest, conditions can be quite damp. Generally speaking, water is a great thing, but sometimes, it is just too much, especially if you are a plant living in the soggy understory. If you were getting wet all the time, you’d probably try to figure out how you could get drier. That’s what many leaves in a tropical rainforest have adapted to do, to prevent the plant from becoming susceptible to disease, and also to ensure photosynthesis is not affected (since the gaseous exchange that must occur during photosynthesis becomes difficult when leaves are wet). What are some ways in which leaves have adapted to sogginess? Waxiness and drip tips.
Many leaves in tropical rainforests have waxy coatings to repel water. Interestingly, this adaptation also occurs in arid areas, but for a different reason; the waxy covering on the leaves of some desert plants helps reduce water loss through the leaf surface. In tropical rainforests, many leaves also have a drip tip, the pointy part at the end of the leaf that helps guide water down, and off.
Water captureand wind protection
Other plants in the rainforest have the opposite problem; they need to keep water around. Neoregelia Bromeliads like the one below live in the rainforest canopy, where it is harder to capture water than in soggier areas below. They also have to worry about wind taking away any water that may fall on them. So, their long, stiff leaves have adapted to become channels that funnel water to a reservoir in the center of the plant. This reservoir captures the water and protects it against the wind. Some bromeliad bowls can contain up to several liters (3/4 gallon) of water, and can host a wide range of animals such as tree frogs, snails, flatworms, tiny crabs, and salamanders–many of whom spend their entire lives in the bromeliad bowls.
Nutrition
Though rainforests may have lots of water, they aren’t always able to offer plants the best nutrition. In addition to the food/energy plants get from photosynthesis, they also need other micronutrients and minerals, which they usually pull in through their roots. But rainforest soil is often nitrogen deficient, since nitrogen is easily leeched away by water. So, how to get nitrogen? Pitcher plants like the ones below have adapted in a fascinatingly way to trap insects, which are great sources of nitrogen. Those hanging “pitchers” that you see are modified leaves; the leaf tip elongates and begins to form a pitcher. Sometimes, insects seek shelter from the rain under the “lid” of the pitcher, which is designed to slip them right into a toxic brew. Or they are drawn in by the scent of nectar. Either way, once the hapless victims are caught, the enzymes inside the pitcher start to digest them and derive nitrogen and other nutrients from them. (Did I mention that sometimes, insects have a rough time?)
And that’s it: just a few of the many remarkable ways plant leaves have adapted to the multiple challenges of living in a tropical rainforest.
Years ago, I learned to make some Lebanese dishes from watching (and helping) college friends cook a few classics, but my main teacher was a cookbook called Lebanese Cuisine by Madelain Farah. The version I have is from 1979, meaning it predates the internet. (And no, I wasn’t in college in 1979; I bought the cookbook some years later). Despite there being so many delicious Lebanese recipes now available online, I still find myself going back to this well-loved, well-spattered, paperback cookbook for some of my favorites. It has accompanied me on many moves and is now held together with tape.
Ms. Farah was a straightforward recipe writer; no coddling of the reader for her. In her recipe for Baba Ghanoush (which she calls Baba Ghannuj, as there are many ways to spell it), the first instruction is written this way: “Eggplant may be baked or grilled over a flame until well done.” There’s a lot of room for interpretation in those instructions…. Ms Farah was also a proponent of mashing the ingredients, either with a potato masher or a wooden mallet. I now use a food processor, which may be anathema in some quarters, but it produces a silky smooth dip.
So, this recipe takes its inspiration from Madelain Farah’s, with a few twists: I added smoked paprika and cumin, which play on the smokiness of the eggplant and really help bring out its flavor. And I use a faster blending technique.
Baba Ghanoush
Ingredients: 2 medium eggplants (2 lb/900 gr total). Note:Ms Farah called for one large eggplant, but the larger the eggplant, the more seeds there are, so I prefer using two smaller ones. (Since I grow eggplant in my garden each summer, I can pick them at just the right size!). olive oil
2 cloves of garlic, minced (we like garlic in our house; you can use 1 clove as the recipe originally called for) 1/4 c. (60 gr.) tahini 1/4 c. (60 ml.) lemon juice, or more to taste 1/4 tsp. smoked paprika 1/4 tsp. cumin 1/2 tsp. salt, to taste 1 tbsp. (15 ml.) water (optional)
To garnish: –chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley –smoked paprika and cumin (or, substitute the paprika and cumin with sumac, which is a more traditional topping and one Ms. Farah suggested; both options taste great) –olive oil
Preparation:
Cooking method #1: Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F (230 degrees C). Cut the eggplant(s) in half lengthwise, and brush a generous amount of olive oil on the cut sides. Place the cut sides down on a large baking sheet (use a rimmed one as the eggplant will get juicy). Bake for about 30-45 minutes until the eggplant is dark golden brown and very, very soft.
Cooking method #2: Grill the eggplant(s) cut side down on a barbecue, until golden and soft, taking care not to completely incinerate them (some burnt bits are ok and add to the flavor, but a carbonized eggplant is a step too far; I say this from experience).
Flip the eggplants over and let cool.
Scoop out the eggplant pulp and place in the bowl of a food processor, carefully removing any skin that may have made its way in, too. Also, check for big clumps of seeds; individual seeds are fine and will get blended right up, but I like to take out any big clusters if I see them, to ensure a smoother dip.
Add the remaining dip ingredients and process until nice and smooth, adjusting the ingredients to suit your taste. If the dip is too thick, you can add more lemon juice or a spoonful of water.
Pour the dip into a serving bowl. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and more smoked paprika and cumin (or use sumac instead); drizzle with olive oil.
Serve with pita bread, pita chips, and/or veggies — or use in a Middle Eastern wrap as a substitute for hummus. I also love putting Baba Ghanoush, lamb kafta, and some tabouli in a pita and calling it a meal.
I’m a fairly equal-opportunity eater; I’m happy with all kinds of food, even airplane food. Yes, I admit it: I actually look forward to seeing what’s on the menu when I’m flying. But I absolutely cannot eat airplane pasta. It is always too soft, and I have been conditioned (spoiled?) to need a bit of “bite” to my pasta.
Luckily, today I’m writing about a pasta dish I would gladly eat many times over: Ragù Bolognese. I’ve been making some form of this since college, and have even provided a quick(er) version of it on this blog, more suited to a weeknight meal. But now I want to point you to a more traditional/authentic recipe that is my go-to for fall and winter weekends when I have more time. It is from the Washington Post, whose author tested six well-known ragu bolognese recipes before settling on a new version combining the best elements of her favorite three recipes. I am so glad she did all that testing, because since I read the article in the Post two years ago, I stopped searching for the perfect ragù myself; for me, this one is it.
The first time I made it, I also decided to make the pasta to go with it. It was the dead of winter, we were fairly snowbound, and I had not used my pasta-making equipment in a while, so I decided to go for it, using a New York Timesrecipe for the pasta dough (see below, including the notes). But then I returned to my lazy ways the other times I’ve made this ragù and used store-bought pasta instead, which did not fill me with quite the same sense of satisfaction, but allowed me to focus on other tasks. If you do have the time and inclination to make your own pasta, then definitely try it. You will be proud of your accomplishment.
Notes: 1) The ragù recipe takes about five hours to make–though most of that time is slow simmering time. You don’t need to be actively engaged for those five hours, but you will need to tend to the ragù every so often. If you are making the pasta yourself, you can also do that during the ragù cooking time. 2) I found it is best to weigh the vegetables for the ragù, as that is most accurate; a medium onion or celery stalk can mean different things to different people. 3) The ragù is delicious the next day, too, so you can make it ahead. I also try to freeze some each time, to use for future lasagna fillings.
4 oz (113 gr) cubed pancetta 3 large garlic cloves 6 tbsp (85 gr) unsalted butter, divided 1 medium onion (8-9 oz/226-255 gr), very finely chopped 1 medium carrot (4-5 oz/113-141 gr), grated 2 medium celery stalks with tender leaves, if any (about 3 oz/85 gr), very finely chopped 1 lb (454 gr) ground beef, 80% lean, 20% fat 1 lb (454 gr) ground pork 3 cups (710 ml) chicken broth 1 cup (237 ml) dry white wine, such as pinot grigio 1 teaspoon (3 gr) kosher salt 1 pinch grated nutmeg 1 cup (237 ml) whole milk 2 tablespoons (32 gr) tomato paste 1 cup (237 ml) tomato puree/passata (such as Pomi or Mutti) Freshly ground black pepper
Preparation: 1. In a mini food processor, combine the pancetta and garlic, pulse a few times to break up the pieces, then process until it becomes a smooth paste.
2. Scrape the paste into a large, wide Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot, along with 2 tablespoons of the butter. Melt them together over medium heat, spreading the paste around with a wooden spoon so the pancetta fat begins to render. Cook until the fat is mostly rendered, about 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the onion, carrot and celery — the soffritto — and cook slowly over medium-low heat, stirring frequently enough so the soffritto doesn’t brown — until the onion is soft, translucent and pale gold, about 15 minutes. 3. Add the ground beef and pork to the pot, increase the heat to medium, and break up the meat with a wooden spoon as much as possible. Once the meat starts to faintly sizzle, reduce the heat to medium-low. Let the meat brown slowly, stirring occasionally and continuing to break up any remaining clumps, for about 1 hour, until evenly browned and burnished.
4. When the meat is nearly done browning, in a medium saucepan over high heat (or in the microwave), heat the broth until simmering; cover and keep hot over low heat until ready to use. Increase the heat under the browned meat to medium-high and stir in the wine, scraping up any browned bits or deposits on the bottom of the pan. Cook and stir until the wine is mostly soaked in and evaporated, about 3 minutes. Stir in the salt and nutmeg, reduce the heat to medium-low and add the milk, cooking and stirring until it is barely visible, about 3 minutes. 5. Measure 2 cups of the hot broth and dissolve the tomato paste in it. Stir the broth with paste into the meat sauce, then stir in the tomato puree. (Keep the unused broth handy in the pot in case you need to reheat it and add more to the sauce later.) Partially cover the pot and let the sauce simmer slowly and gently, stirring occasionally, until it is thick and all the components begin to melt together, about 2 hours.
Left: Earlier in the simmering phase. Right: Later, as sauce has thickened more.
6. Stir the sauce — if it looks at all dry, reheat the remaining broth, ladle in a little more, about 1/2 cup, and stir. Continue to simmer gently, uncovered, stirring occasionally and adding a little more broth or water as needed to keep the sauce sumptuously saucy, until the vegetables have completely melted into the sauce, about 1 hour. 7. Cut the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter into a few pieces and stir them into the sauce; add about 20 grinds of black pepper and stir that in, too. Taste, and season with more salt and/or pepper, if desired.
Note from NYT: “Using the “00” flour gives the silkiest, softest pasta while bread flour will give you more of a satisfying chew, and all-purpose lands you squarely in the middle.” Note from me: I made this first with “00” flour, and it was delicious, but as you now know, I need more “bite” to my pasta. So I prefer to make it with bread flour if I have it, or all-purpose otherwise.
2 1/4 cups (290 gr) all-purpose flour, bread flour, or “00” flour, more as needed 1 tsp (3 gr) kosher salt 2 whole large eggs 3 egg yolks 1 tbsp (15 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, more as needed
Preparation: 1. In a food processor, pulse together flour and salt. Add eggs, yolks, and oil and run the machine until the dough holds together. If dough looks dry, add another teaspoon olive oil. If dough looks wet, add a little flour until dough is tacky and elastic.
2. Dump dough onto a work surface and knead briefly until very smooth. Wrap in plastic and rest at room temperature for 2 hours or in the fridge overnight.
3. Cut the dough into 4 pieces, keeping them covered with plastic wrap or a dish towel when not in use. (If you’re rolling the dough out by hand, rather than using a pasta machine, cut it into 2 pieces instead.) Using a pasta roller set to the thickest (widest) setting, roll one piece of dough out into a sheet. Fold the sheet in thirds like a letter and pass it through the machine 2 more times on the same setting.
4. Reduce the setting, and repeat rolling, passing it through the machine 2 or 3 times before going to the next setting. For pappardelle and fettuccine, stop rolling after the dough has gone through setting #6. 5. Shape the pasta. For pappardelle, cut rolled pasta into 1-inch-wide strips. For fettuccine, run the rolled sheets through the fettuccine setting on your roller. Place cut pasta on a flour-dusted sheet tray and cover with a dish towel while rolling and cutting the remaining dough. Make sure to sprinkle flour over the cut pasta before you place another layer on top. If not using immediately, cover the sheet pan with a dish towel to keep the dough supple.
6. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil, add fresh pasta and boil for 60-90 seconds, depending on thickness of the pasta. Drain well.