Tag Archives: Testaccio

Ancient Roman Building Techniques: Beautiful Examples In and Around Rome

4 Feb
Ruined dome of Western Palestra (gymnasium), Baths of Caracalla, Rome

The Ancient Romans were master architects, builders, and innovators. That we can still see the remains of many 2,000+-year-old structures is a testament to the Romans’ skill and to the materials they used. And also to the happy fact that in subsequent millennia, rather than be destroyed, many ancient buildings and structures were built over or incorporated into other buildings, or simply left where they were as the effort involved in removing them would be too great. Here is one example I’ve always enjoyed seeing: apartments built right into and around the ruins of the Baths of Agrippa near the Pantheon:

In contrast, I am certain that in 2,000 years, there will be nary a trace of my house here in the Midwest or any of the modern buildings nearby. So, how did the Romans make structures that have lasted so long? The answer is that they made excellent concrete and great bricks, and combined the two in various ways to construct extremely strong and long-lasting walls and other structures.

Of course, walls and buildings were also built with blocks carved from rock. In Rome, some of the earliest examples you can see are “dry walls,” built with blocks of volcanic rock called tufa without any mortar between the blocks. This technique of using blocks is called opus quadratum (also, ashlar or cuboidal masonry):

If you are walking around Rome and see these types of tufa-block walls, you can be sure they are quite old. They deserve a nod of appreciation, because cutting large blocks cleanly and evenly, hoisting them, and placing them perfectly with just their weight and position to keep them in place — that is a feat requiring a lot of hard work and skill.

Building techniques began to change in the second century BC, when the Romans discovered they could substitute volcanic ash (pozzolana) for the sand in concrete mixtures, yielding much stronger and more weather-resistant concrete. This super concrete turned out to be a perfect material for the inner core of walls (opus caementicium). Plus, it did not require as much hard work or skill to make, compared to the large block walls. The idea was that the concrete core would be covered (ie, faced) with stone or brick, and then, depending on the structure, faced again with stucco, paint, or polished stone veneers like marble.

One of the first ways of using this concrete core involved a construction technique called opus incertum: randomly inserting irregularly shaped, uncut stones and/or small tufa blocks into the concrete. This technique was used in building the Porticus Aemilia, a storehouse complex built in 193 BC along the Tiber river by Testaccio:

Though fired bricks had been around for a long time, the Romans did not really begin to use them significantly until the cusp of the first century AD. Two of the first structures to be made of fired brick in Rome were the Theatre of Marcellus (Teatro di Marcello) and the Tomb of Caecelia Metella on the Appian Way. The Teatro di Marcello was completed in 13 BC; miraculously, it still has its facade, though apartments were built on top of it in the 16th century. The Tomb of Caecilia Metella is thought to have been built somewhere between 30-10 BC.

Teatro di Marcello
Tomb of Caecila Metella

After these two structures were built, fired bricks began to be used all across the Roman Empire, in various ways. The most basic was a technique that involved facing the concrete core of a wall with courses of brick. It was called opus testaceum. The cut-away section in the photo below shows an inner concrete core and brick facing, from a wall at Portus, the ancient port of Rome, built around 50 AD. (Portus is about 35 minutes from central Rome, near Fiumicino Airport, and is definitely worth a visit if you can make it there.)

Inside view of ancient Roman wall, Portus.

Though bricks had come into fashion, tufa and other materials were still used as building materials. The photo below is of a section of the Aurelian Wall (270-275 AD) made with both brick and tufa. The technique used is called opus vittatum (ie, banded work, when the bricks and tufa are placed in alternating rows):

Opus vittatum, Aurelian Wall at Porta Tiburtina

Roman bricks came in different sizes: round, square, oblong, triangular, or rectangular. And walls were also built in different patterns. A pattern of pure brick rows (courses) was called opus testaceum, as mentioned above. Though it is hard to see, the skinny flat bricks used in these types of walls were often triangular, with the longest side lined up on the outside of the wall and the pointy side of the brick embedded in the concrete. A diamond or net-like pattern was called opus reticulatum. It consisted of small tufa blocks carved like little pyramids, with the square base being visible and the pointy part embedded in the concrete. When two techniques were used together, that was called opus mixtum.

The photos below show a wall in the Portico of Claudius, at Portus. On the right side of each photo is a section of opus testaceum (OT), ie, uninterrupted rows of bricks. The left part of the photo shows a section of opus mixtum (OM) consisting of a couple rows of brick (opus testaceum) interspersed with diamond-shaped sections of tufa blocks (opus reticulatum, OR).

Sometimes, the opus reticulatum was made with a combination of brick and black basalt instead of tufa to achieve a more distinct polychrome coloring, as in the first photo below from Ostia Antica (which is also an example of opus mixtum). Fun fact: The black cobblestones of Rome are also made out of black basalt.

Sometimes you will see brick arches in the walls. They are called relieving arches and they were used on tall walls, and above doors or windows or other openings, to help distribute weight and maintain structural integrity. The square holes you often see, too, are where the scaffolding was inserted when the wall was being built. They are called putlog (or putlock) holes. Other holes are where the exterior facades were attached.

Capitolium at Ostia Antica, circa 120 AD.
Putlog holes, facade holes, and a few remaining bits of a marble frieze, Baths of Caracalla, 216 AD.

I hope these notes on bricks, stones, structures, walls, and holes will help as you walk around Rome, take day trips, or find yourself seeing Roman ruins anywhere else in the world.

I’ll sign off with a question about a longstanding mystery. I have always loved the look of this wall in the Cortile Biblioteche at Hadrian’s Villa in Tivoli (about 40 min. drive from Rome). But I have never been able to figure out why it was constructed this way, with pointy bricks sticking out. So if anyone knows, please do tell!

Recipe: Coda alla Vaccinara (Oxtail Stew) with Rigatoni

2 Dec

One of the pleasures of being in a new place is tasting local dishes and then trying to figure out how to make them. In Italy, part of the fun lies in consulting butchers, greengrocers, cheese purveyors, wine merchants, and really, any Italian who eats, because they are all happy to offer advice. As soon as the days grew cooler, I knew what I wanted to make: Coda alla Vaccinara (Oxtail Stew) served over rigatoni–an old-style dish appearing on many Roman menus.

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In previous times, the slaughterhouse workers of Testaccio (the vacccinari) were given offal and oxtails to pad their slim salaries. Their wives rose to the challenge and created dishes that made the most of the available ingredients. In Coda alla Vaccinara, the oxtails are braised in a sauce made with pancetta, lots of celery, onions, carrots, tomatoes, wine, and spices, though the stew is open to interpretation; everyone I asked prepares the dish in a slightly different way. Some people make it with red wine instead of white, some add water, some forego the carrot, some add raisins. Large pieces of celery are de rigueur, but in a rebellious break from tradition (and knowing I wanted to turn the entire stew into a sauce), I finely diced all the celery and survived to tell the tale.

However, I did not escape looks of shock and dismay on the faces of two Italian friends when I mentioned I had added a pinch of cinnamon to the stew. “Cinnamon? CINNAMON? No. NO.” But I say “Yes.” In addition to cloves, cinnamon very frequently appears in recipes for Coda, which is meant to have a warm-scented, delicately sweet undertone. So here is the resulting recipe, a hearty interpretation perfect for autumn and winter. And following on the advice of Alessandro Volpetti (and I’m happy to take the word of anyone at Volpetti’s), I topped the Coda with grated Ricotta Salata cheese, one of my favorites. But omit the cinnamon if you prefer, top with Parmesan or Pecorino Romano instead–this dish is yours to interpret.

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Rigatoni with Oxtail Sauce (con Coda alla Vaccinara)

1-2 tbsp. olive oil
2.2 lb. (1 kg.) oxtails
salt and pepper
4 oz. (about 112 grams) pancetta, cubed
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 large carrot, finely diced (or coarsely grated)
5 stalks celery, finely diced
5 cloves garlic, minced
1 bay leaf
1/8 -1/4 tsp. chili flakes
4 whole cloves (or 1/8 tsp. ground)
¼ tsp. ground cinnamon
1.5 tbsp. tomato paste
1.5 c. white wine
1 large (28 oz./800 grams) can peeled Italian tomatoes
fresh parsley and marjoram (or oregano)
tiny pinch sugar

1 lb. (500 grams) rigatoni
Ricotta salata cheese, grated

Preparation
1. Lightly season the oxtail pieces with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven, then brown the oxtail pieces, turning them on all sides. Remove from the pot and place in a bowl.
2. Add the pancetta to the pot and cook until mostly crispy and the fat has rendered; do not drain the fat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and cook until soft, deglazing the pot as you go. Sprinkle the onion mixture with more black pepper, add the garlic and bay leaf, and cook for a couple of minutes. Add the chili flakes, cloves, and cinnamon and cook for a minute or two while stirring. Add the tomato paste and the wine. Simmer gently for about 5 minutes to reduce the liquid slightly.
3. With clean hands, take a peeled tomato from the can and crush it into the stew; repeat with all the tomatoes. This is a very satisfying technique—but moderation is key; if you are too enthusiastic, you may end up shooting tomato bits across the kitchen. If you prefer a slightly less visceral experience, you can cut the tomatoes while in the can, or remove them and dice, adding all the tomatoes and all the tomato sauce/juice from the can to the pot.
4. Mix in the pinch of sugar, nestle the oxtail pieces into the vegetable mixture, pour in any liquid from the bowl they were in, sprinkle with more black pepper, and then scatter some of the herbs on top.

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5. Cover the pot and simmer on low heat for about 3 hours, or until the meat is very tender when pierced with a fork (it may take longer depending on the oxtails). Remove the oxtails, place on a dish, let cool, then pull off as much meat from the bones as possible (this will require some patience). Return the shredded meat to the sauce; keep warm.
6. Cook the rigatoni according to package instructions until al dente, drain, return to its pot, and then mix in the Coda sauce. Scatter more fresh herbs on top and serve with the grated cheese.

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Ode on an Italian Panino: Allesso di Scottona

24 Oct

Taking a page from Keats, who is buried in the cemetery near our apartment, this post is dedicated to a single beautiful object: not a Grecian urn, but an Italian sandwich.

The object of my affection can be found at the Testaccio Market, a wondrous place away from the usual madding crowds of Rome, a veritable feast for the senses and the stomach. Fantastic produce? Check. Meat, poultry, fish, cheese, nuts? Check. Honey, preserves, pastries, gelato, and all other delicious sweet things? Check. Coffee and wine? Check. Plus housewares, vintage clothes, flowers, and more, including the panini at Mordi e Vai (which means “Bite and Go,” or slightly less literally, “Grab and Go”).

You cannot miss the stall; the heady aromas wafting around it will help guide the way to this bastion of Roman street food. Proprietor Sergio Esposito, a proud native son, wanted to offer his customers serious Roman panini–panini with fillings born from Testaccio’s history as the city’s meat-packing district. And more, he wanted to engender an appreciation for this authentic fare. He succeeded, judging by the devout following Mordi e Vai has cultivated.

As it was my first time there, I asked Signor Esposito’s son for his recommendation. He said the most popular panino (panini is plural) is the one made with Allesso di Scottona and chicory:

Panino
Allesso
 comes from cotto a lesso, which means “boiled,” though “simmered” might be more accurate; the preparation is similar to a French pot-au-feu. A scottona is a heifer, a female bovine that has not yet had a calf and is no more than 15 or so months old. (A “cow” has had at least one calf.) Scottona meat is marbled with small flecks of fat and is very, very tender. As the meat simmers, the fat melts and gives additional flavor to the meat.

To prepare the panino, Signor Esposito’s son took a piece of the fork-tender meat from the simmering liquid and placed it on a cutting board, where he carefully (I would say almost lovingly) cut it into smaller pieces. He sliced a crusty ciabatta roll in half, dipped an open side into the simmering liquid, and then gently placed the meat on top. He followed it with some braised chicory–a somewhat bitter leafy green that is related to dandelions, endive, escarole, and radicchio. Finally, he added the other half of the bread, pressed the sandwich lightly together, wrapped it in a translucent wrapper, and handed it over. Cost: 3.5 euro.

PaninoMaker
What a triumph. The crusty bread balanced the tender savoriness of the meat while the chicory countered its richness. It was the perfect panino for a fall lunch, and the perfect introduction to Mordi e Vai’s offerings, which include panini with fillings ranging from meatballs and sausage to tripe and bits of liver, lung, and heart–as well as other fare.

If you get there early, you may be doubly lucky: you may not have to wait long for your panino and you may be able to find a table in the central courtyard of the market, where you can give this delectable Roman sandwich all the attention it deserves.

Sign
Mordi e Vai

Box 15
Testaccio Market
Open 8am-2:30pm.